Road with 1,864 bends...

Location: Kunming
Miles: 2000
Our route for the next few days has been disrupted because we are not allowed on the Zhatong road; the problem seems to relate to road closures.  In any event, we divert to Kunming via Jianshui and it turns out to be a great result.  However, the ride to Jianshui is not for the faint hearted.  The weather is steaming hot and the road continuously twists and turns amidst the mountains, random massive potholes abound and if Thailand claims a road with 1,864 bends, then this should take the award for double that.  The scenery is breath-taking but our progress is slow.  We can’t average more that 25mph.  Its 267 miles to Jianshui and we make it just as the light fades. 

We stop in a traditional Chinese family courtyard residence, an old merchants house from the seventeenth century.  It is so wonderfully preserved that it is also a national treasure and part museum.  A wander around Jianshui the next day reveals an old city wall, preserved gates, one of the largest Confucius temples in China, old cobbled streets (and one western bar serving great coffee!) . . . and not another white face in sight!  Not only is it a great find but we also find out that Zhatong had been hit by a 4.5 earthquake the previous night, so a lucky escape too!

The next day tracks us up to Kunming, capital of Yunnan Province and the first taste on this journey of big Chinese cities.  The road has become faster but busier, and with this the random, crazy acts of Chinese driver, cyclist and pedestrian suicidal behaviour increase too.  The mental effort to take in all the unpredictability of it all as every normal road rule in the West is abused is massive and the concentration is intense.  Even though its our fourth time here, it’s hard to control the rage when yet another truck pulls straight across you, out in front of you or head on for you.  In the end, full Xenon lights blaring and extra loud horn blasting, Kevin scares the hell out of me by playing chicken with them.  God forbid!  It has a partial impact . . .

Approaching Kunming, the clear air of the south becomes more of a grey haze and it is a sign that we are reaching some of China’s more populated areas.  Kunming is massive with roads laced like spaghetti, some banning motorcycles.  We just ignore the signs and use the GPS to thread our way through to the Green Park and our hotel.  It works perfectly.  The GPS is a godsend – our Chinese guide and driver having been stuck in some almighty traffic jam, hours back and never catching us up.